A Jewel Reborn: Nina Dyer’s Legendary Colombian Emerald Brooch Returns to Auction at Christie’s

In the glittering world of high jewellery, few pieces capture history and artistry quite like Nina Dyer's Colombian emerald brooch, now returning to auction at Christie’s. Set for sale on November 12, 2024, this exquisite piece, originally commissioned by Prince Aga Khan in 1960 as a gift for his wife, has been a symbol of timeless elegance and sophistication. Crafted by Cartier Paris, the brooch was sold in Christie’s debut Magnificent Jewellery auction in Geneva in 1969 and has since passed through the hands of iconic jewellers like Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston. This November, it is expected to fetch between CHF5.2 million and CHF6.8 million (US$6 million - $8 million).

The brooch is a masterpiece of emerald and diamond craftsmanship, centreing on a remarkable 37.00-carat untreated Colombian emerald, framed by a glittering row of diamonds. "The emerald brooch is not just a piece of jewellery; it carries with it the stories and charm of a bygone era,” notes Max Fawcett, Christie’s Head of Jewellery Europe. “We are thrilled to present it once again, not only because of its history but also due to the increased interest in coloured stones the market has witnessed in recent years."

This brooch holds an SSEF report confirming its exceptional quality and rarity, features that make it a particularly coveted piece. Unlike many emeralds, it shows no indications of clarity enhancement, a rarity that is bound to draw global interest.

Nina Dyer, renowned for her opulent jewelry collection, was a notable socialite whose life embodied glamour and sophistication. Her collection was remarkable not only for its aesthetic but also for its philanthropy. At the 1969 auction where the emerald brooch was first sold, her jewels surpassed expectations, achieving over CHF12.7 million. True to her philanthropic spirit, proceeds from the sale were directed toward animal welfare causes across Africa, Asia, and Europe. François Curiel, now Chairman of Christie’s EMEA, recalls the impact of that sale. Visiting the preview as a young man, he was inspired by the collection, especially this emerald brooch. “Seeing the Nina Dyer emerald for the first time ignited a passion for perfection within me that has guided my 50-plus-year career with Christie's," he shared.

Christie’s has come full circle since its first Geneva auction, building a legacy of exceptional jewellery sales that attract collectors worldwide. This year’s auction at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues continues that tradition, with a pre-sale exhibition open to the public from November 8.